Studio jewellery processes for the post cyber designer

Abstract

The cyber revolution has emphasized the dialogue regarding perceptions of value between the mechanically produced and the handmade jewellery piece. The application of modern digital design technology with traditional methods of working by hand in the studio jewellers’ practice raises questions of authorship, authenticity, and craftsmanship. The problem is the synthesis of these opposing aspects and components in a post cyber society Studio Jewellery industry. The study investigates the possibility of mitigating the problems with the development of a new framework for the design and manufacture of handmade jewellery in the post cyber society. Literature reveals that in the current digital age, technology is developing at a rapid pace which in the future could lead to manual jewellery design and manufacturing processes being eliminated (Pettersson, 2019). To date, however, there are no jewellery making processes that exclude manual labour entirely. The rapid development of technology could impact the future sustainability of the studio jeweller in their ability to remain viable in terms of price, time, material consumption, variety and complexity of design afforded by digital processes (Adamson, 2007:21, Fuchs, Schreier, & Osselaer, 2015:100, Hashim, 2018:24, White, 2004:10). The study was conducted in the greater Cape Town (South Africa) area using a participatory action research method based on an iterative reflective cycle. Participatory action research allows for the parties most affected by changes in the industry to participate in finding a proposed solution. In this research, participants explore the incorporation of digital design technology into the studio jewellery design and manufacturing process of bespoke jewellery. The research aimed to develop a basic framework to find the balance between technological advancement and mass production and the continuity of tradition and the function of the Studio Jeweller in the jewellery industry. The findings of the two cycles of research identify the current processes of studio jewellers. Participants identified tools that have value in the creation of authentic iv handmade jewellery and established the parameters that would ensure the authenticity of handmade within the digital process. The second cycle of research developed a framework for the application of digital technology in the traditional process of handmade jewellery. This framework can be applied to the ever-changing digital landscape in its infinite possibilities. The updated framework will assist Studio jewellers to consider a wider range of technologies whilst retaining the authenticity of traditional bespoke jewellery in a post cyber society. The knowledge gained by the study has a direct bearing on the education of Jewellery design and the development of future curricula.